PARMIDA 20-Pack 4FT LED T8 Ballast Bypass Type B Light Tube, 18W, UL-Listed for Single-Ended & Dual-Ended Connection, 2200lm, Frosted Lens, T8 T10 T12, UL, FCC - 5000K

This made my shop so much brighter no more cold starting Florence

I have installed more that 40 of these and have seen no failures. Color is indistinguishable from fluorescent cool white.

I am very happy with this purchase. The bulbs are well made and were packaged nicely. Every LED that I have purchased for my home produces more ‘light’ than its equivalent incandescent, fluorescent or CFL. I wanted to provide a little feedback in hopes of helping others with the conversion from fluorescent to LED. In general I prefer a ‘white’ light (higher Kalvin 5000k) vs the ‘yellow’ traditional light (lower Kalvin like 3000k). The light output (lumens) from a frosted vs clear lens are nearly identical. The frosted lens is most common and helps reduce shadowing effects throughout the space. When choosing an LED to replace a fluorescent, I chose the “ballast bypass” option for 2 reasons. First if you kept the ballast, if it ever goes bad you need to replace it. Second it is one more component drawing power, thus making the switch to LED less efficient. Don’t be scared of rewiring your old shop lights. Mine were 10-12 years old and I had 3 different brands. I will explain the process next. Note that you will need 2 wire nuts per fixture.Existing wiring (typical with electronic ballast fluorescent)-Black hot wire (either is connected to black ballast wire or to the pull cord switch).-If applicable, the other side of the pull cord switch is another black wire going to the black ballast wire.-White neutral wire (connected to white ballast wire).-Ground wire (connected direct to fixture housing).-Single red hot wire (from the ballast to one end of the fixture).-The tombstone connectors at the end with the red wire, will be shunted (meaning a small bridge wire between the 2 connectors).-Two blue wires (from the ballast to other end of the fixture, tombstone connectors will be unshunted in this case).-If applicable, there is a single blue wire from ballast to other end of fixture (tombstone connectors will be shunted in this case).Directions for standard shop lights – works with hard wired and corded fixtures-Ensure power to the fixture is off.-Remove the lens cover (if applicable), old fluorescent tubes, and the wiring cover to expose the wires/ballast area. (some fixtures had 2 screws, others had clips where you flex the cover to remove)-No change required to ground wires.-Disconnect the wire nut between the black hot wires. (note the black wire from the ballast will be abandoned, you can cut and remove if you like).-Cut the red wire near the ballast and strip ½” off the cut end.-Connect the red wire and the black hot wire with a wire nut.-Cut the white neutral wire near the ballast and the blue wire(s) near the ballast.-Strip ½” off the white and blue wire ends and connect all with a wire nut.-I chose to leave the ballast in the unit, but you could remove and discard.Directions for shop lights with on/off pull cord – works with hard wired and corded fixtures-Ensure power to the fixture is off.-Remove the lens cover (if applicable), old fluorescent tubes, and the wiring cover to expose the wires/ballast area. (some fixtures had 2 screws, others had clips where you flex the cover to remove)-No change required to ground wires.-No change required to black hot wire to the pull chain switch.-Disconnect the wire nut between the black hot wires on the other side of the switch. (note the black wire from the ballast will be abandoned, you can cut and remove if you like).-Cut the red wire near the ballast and strip ½” off the cut end.-Connect the red wire and the black hot wire from the switch with a wire nut.-Cut the white neutral wire near the ballast and the blue wire(s) near the ballast.-Strip ½” off the white and blue wire ends and connect all with a wire nut.-I chose to leave the ballast in the unit, but you could remove and discard.

These T8 fluorescent replacement tubes are a solid upgrade if you're ready to ditch old, flickering fluorescents. The ballast bypass method was clearly explained in the instructions, and once I removed the ballast and wired everything directly, the installation went smoothly. It's definitely a project for someone comfortable with a bit of DIY wiring, but the long-term savings on energy and maintenance make it absolutely worth it.These LED tubes are super bright—the 2200 lumens really light up the warehouse without that harsh, flickery feel of traditional tubes. At just 18W, they’re far more energy efficient, and I’m already seeing a drop in my electricity usage. I also appreciate that they work with the original tombstones, which saved me from having to retrofit the fixtures.One thing to note: the fit is very snug in the fixture. That’s great once they’re in place—no rattling or sagging—but getting them in took a bit of extra care and pressure. It’s not a deal-breaker, just something to be aware of if your fixture is older or has slightly worn sockets.Overall, I’m happy with the quality, brightness, and peace of mind knowing they’re UL-listed, RoHS compliant, and FCC certified. Plus, the 5-year warranty adds even more confidence. I’d absolutely recommend these if you’re ready to bypass the ballast and want a reliable, energy-saving lighting solution—with a little patience for the snug fit.

Really nice LED bulbs for the money. Had 1 / 20 arrive that didn't work and supplier stood-by their product and shipped a replacement right away. Would recommend!

Twenty in the box, the packaging was excellent, with fitted foam sheets inside sturdy cardboard. (I grieve to be using so much non-recyclable foam, and even recyclable cardboard, but few companies are willing to use available alternatives). I have installed 16 of the 20, all perfect. If you use the "two end" installation method, you do not have to change out the non-shunted connectors (tombstones) that are found in most old ballast-driven florescent fixtures. Changing out the old connectors is a pain. Anyway, first turn off the power!!! and cut all the wires near the ballast, and remove the wire nuts on the line, neutral, and ground wires. Save the full length of all the wires as you may need them. Drop the ballast out and then, using the provided wiring diagram, reattach the wires directly to the power leads, black connecting the wires to one end, and white to the other. Take note that the wiring on the line end is slightly different that for the neutral end. Not difficult, but requires thought and a test before your put everything back together.

I have ordered 2 batches of 20 lamps, i'm gradually replacing my older fluorescent garage lamps. The first batch from about 3 years ago was great and had no issues, all still working fine. The second batch from last year has had about 50% failure rate, the bad ones starting blinking after anything from a few minutes to a few hours. Swapping them around confirms it's the bulbs not the fixture. I realize i am way past the 30 day return window, but of course I'm replacing the old fluorescent as they fail, so it's taken a while to get through this second box. I hope other buyers have better luck, or Parmida has improved their quality control. I'm also hoping a customer service person might contact me on this, since they are failing as they come out of the box.