DROK DC Boost Converter 900W, 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Step Up Converter Adjustable Voltage Regulator Output 48V 24V 12V Power Supply with LED Display Cooling Fan

I ordered one of these and had to send it back and get a replacement because it was not working properly. The second one works perfectly perfect for my project

Have tried a bunch of different DC to DC converters and this is the only one that even comes close to delivering rated specs. Fairly easy setup, and can be configured to enable output automatically at powerup. I'm using it to charge a LiFe battery from my main car battery on a switched source. My input voltage can drop as low as 10V under load (due to a long wire run) and I've got the output set to 14.4V and the battery pulls it down to mid 13's when it's charging. This board will deliver about 12A pretty reliably so about 160W.Some of the other DC to DC boost converters I've tried either won't power on at all, or switch off when the input voltage drops, or just won't give me more than 8-10A (while often being rated for 15-20A). This one just works.The only issue I have is that it has no case, and all the electronics are really out there on both sides of the board, so be careful you don't short it out on something.

I have to say this is a quality product even though it's really frustrating that it doesn't come with a box. I'm going to tell you how to fix that. Just buy one of those little plastic trays from the Dollar tree. The one that's too small for pencils or anything but little change things. It fits right over this thing so take a small anything flat that isn't conductive and glue it to it and then put that box over it. Take scissors and cut a flap where the input wires go and one where the output wires go and you're set as far as protecting it and then you can just lift that cover off and put it on as needed. Now as to not being smart enough for my laptop. First of all I have to say you have to set both the voltage and The max amperage to what they are supposed to be just what is on your existing adapter. The computer has a charging circuit inside and it's really quite sophisticated. There are essentially two computers working. One is a main integrated controller and then there's the charging subsystem and it's possible for a manufacturer to build into the power adapter, some kind of resistance value or other source of verification that that is indeed the original power adapter which I think my laptop has that. If that's true, then there's no way that you can use one of these buck boost converters without hiring an engineer to change that resistance value . So The rest of the story goes that I did not originally set the max amperage because the boost converter itself is only capable of a total of. I think it's 15 amps and the adapters is 11.7 amps but will only take what it wants. Well that's not a good idea because what happened Was it basically scrambled Something inside that very complicated circuitry and the computer no longer would charge or run from the power adapter. It would only recognize the battery and it was using the battery power only. That was not something that I needed at that moment for sure because I'm mobile in between homes and in between cities. So losing your laptop is not good timing. This all has to do with mobile power for me to get by. And ultimately, the best solution is to use an inverter with your existing power brick. Just don't spend a lot of money on an expensive inverter that you're probably going to want to replace. Just get a simple pure sine wave inverter. Maybe as little as 500 W but you can probably get 1,000 or 1,500 W for the same price. I'm not here to give you that advice actually. So having just spent over $1,000 to move my stuff into storage I am broke and so I have to return this thing just to get an inverter to replace it. I may try resetting my subsystem again and the way you do this is Basically there's either a a button. Excuse me, a hole in the base of the computer usually to press or you have to disconnect the battery and then hold the power button for 30 seconds and then reconnect the battery. So that worked to restore my laptop. Thank goddess. But I have no better use of my laptop than what I started out with a couple of weeks and $300 ago. I'm forced to use my PayPal credit on eBay or possibly home Depot but I need it now so thanks again. Amazon prime for your return policies.Last update so I had a really inexpensive inverter 700 W that I got from harbor freight a long time ago. I don't know years ago that turned out to be a modified sine wave. You have to look in the details doesn't say and that's plenty. Good enough to run these adapters. There's a lot of fear about it, putting interference or destroying things in your computer and all that. Oh, I wouldn't run a computer directly, but it's not being run directly. It's being run through a very sophisticated adapter that's designed to take all kinds of different waves or waveforms so that's the first thing. The second thing is that you don't necessarily have to run the computer while you're charging, so at least as an experiment because I'm a cautious fellow- the first thing I did was charge my computer while it was off technically hibernating. And it worked that cannot harm your computer and it's not going to harm your adapter. So there you are. You have like a $30 or $10 at a swap meet inverter to run your laptop in your car. However, do get a storage battery and a charger. That's where the other $300 came from.

Don’t buy this is junk … no way to contact tech support ! Impossible to set voltage and current with those 4 buttons.. stupid Lock function is there to hassle you and keep you from setting current and voltage . ISure this circuit has great potentialBut the instructions suck ! Speaks of settings the new owner of this junk doesn’t have a clue ! I’m returning this junk … it’s sad because if product support was available I’m sure they could set me on the right path Tino preset this thing … Sad. Don’t buy. You’ll be sorry !!!

Good converter. Happy with purchase

I have to confess, I was truly saddened as I was going over the documentation I received with this DROK DC Buck Converter. ( the second one I purchased.) One of its most impressive and powerful features isn't even mentioned! Pay attention DROK... My rating above is mostly a reflection of the second one I bought. I'll be hoping for better on the third, which is on the way.While this device touts a pretty impressive array of features, offering finite control for voltage and current settings, some safety features like the ability to turn on or off the display, lock or unlock the input controls, there's storage for programed current and voltage values or other settings that can be recalled when needed, and more.After I got up to speed on most of what it had to offer, I was pretty excited. I found it to be programmable, remotely controllable, have pretty stable output and the build quality was pretty solid. One of its best features however, isn't even mentioned and that's the device's ability to be remotely controlled via UART! It's one of this devices finest and most powerful features and the main reason I chose it for my projects. I actually went so far as to write a program in micropython to take advantage of the ability to remote control the device.My biggest let down to date has been that I'm only hitting about 50% with the things as regards the UART actually functioning. Has me wondering if they've dropped support for the UART... Or is it possible that QC is that poor? I'm hoping DROK can be persuaded to continue supporting the UART connectivity and control, if it's the former. Without it, it's only half the device it was. Wow I have to admit that that 50% is directly related to the fact I've only purchased 2, it's still 50% and that's not good at the moment. We'll see what happens with #3 :-)Beyond that, if the UART is not functional, and if push button control is your thing... and you don't mind tending to it in that manner... from this point it seems to be a pretty solid and stable supply. I may be providing more commentary on this DROK Buck Converter as I continue to work with it and time permits.Update 4/25/24 Now a 33% success rate... As I mentioned previously, I have written a program to communicate with this buck converter that works flawlessly with the first one I got. That said, and based on the fact I do have that much experience with them, either the last two I have gotten have been defective from the manufacturer or something has drastically changed. In the first case then quality control really becomes an issue, and that's too bad because these have the potential to be some incredibly useful and powerful supplies. In the case of the latter, that may be just as bad, because if something has changed in the requirements for the communication protocols over the UART then they haven't bothered to share it with anyone at least not on Amazon.That said, I did try to contact someone, a representative for DROK, via Amazon but that seems like a non starter from the gate. So I will try to call them before I actually do a return and hopefully maybe get to the bottom of this . My project is highly reliant on the remote control of this device over the UART port So I'm really hoping to find a solution . I will keep you guys posted but as of yet I do not see a solution forthcoming . Let's hope somebody from Amazon or DROK will step up to the plate and say hey here's what's going on , that would be wonderful . Not to mention, I would continue to use their products and I have to make several of these, lol