Ecosmart Smart 11 Electric Spa Heater, White, 12 x 10.5 x 4.75

I am using it for a oversized lap pool. Roughly 3500 Gallons. Heats the water 2-3 degrees per hour and i have about 19-21 Gallons a minute running through the heater, with a 2 hp pool pump.Had it for about 2 years Now. Keeps my lap pool from freezing in the winter time at 0 degreese no proplem.I only have to run it every couple days for 6-8 hours and keeps the ice from forming and my pumps run year around on the pool. It does pull a solid 55 amps. 8 hours of run time cost my roughly 15 dollars a day. You can do the math with your electric company. I would say overall its a Win!!! in the summer time it will heat my pool to 85 Degreese in a short order. I love it....

This is a terrible product. The first one I had lasted 2 years and then failed to heat. Customer service diagnosed a bad part but since it was older than a year I had spend an additional $60 to buy it. Changed the part out and the heater worked for about a week then died. I ended up buying another one thinking it was just bad luck with the first and to keep plumbing easy as pipes were routed specifically for this model. The second unit is less than a year old, used twice and it has failed in a very dangerous way - heating the hot tub to 120F with no ability to control it. Do yourself a favor and buy a reputable unit from Hayward or Raypak.

For this pool here....a smaller one but a pool of about 8 feet long 6 feet wide and 4 feet deep. The install was super simple. The fittings were exactly as expected. The electric connections were very straight forward. This kind of heater begins to really kick in as the water heats. It heats cool water and the result is not obvious at first but after a bit as the overall temp begins to rise, the pool becomes or can become more spa like. These are great. We are now doing a whole house remodel in the states of an older townhome removing two traditional water tanks in the home taking up two closets in exchange for Home on demand hot water heaters from Eco Smart.

This is for the Ecosmart 11kw 240v spa heater.. First, this is an EXACT copy of the Raypak 11kw spa heater, even the knobs are identical. Dont know who copied who, but it is a drop in replacement.Both my original Raypak and the Ecosmart burned out after three months with not much actual use (with spa water heating to dangerous 118F levels). Raypak wouldnt even talk to me. Eco did, but pushed back hard about warranty service. They did send me tech repair manuals though and tried to point out the likely failure. If you dont fill our the warranty card within a month, they will NOT honor the warranty. Also the registration asks for the installer company, so my guess is if you installed this yourself, and Im sure you did if you bought it thru Amazon, then they probably wont honor the warranty anyway. Or they will charge so much for labor that is not worth it to bother returning for service.BUT: The reason these heaters burn out so easily is that they fill up with water on the inside. With the metal parts and the cold water, there is a TON of condensation. Most parts are separated and sealed, but the triacs (the two large black three prong AC transistors which switch the heaters on and off) are placed at the bottom of the box with the wires going up so that water can easily travel down the wires and short them out. Note that triacs usually burn out ON, not off. So when they burn out the heaters will be stuck ON, your water temp will rise to 118F or more. To fix this problem, remove the triacs by unscrewing the screw (the screw is very tight at first) that holds each of them to the heat sink at the bottom of the box. Then get a bottle of liquid electric tape and thoroughly glob it around the triacs' leads front and back and between to seal it so that water will not be able to short from the 120V power leads to the signal lead. The wires and triac leads already have shrink wrap sealing around them, but this is not enough to prevent water from sneaking underneath and shorting them. DONT get the liquid tape on the metal back side of the triacs as they need good contact with the heat sink (they get really hot), just glob the seal around and between the three leads and wires. Screw them back onto the heatsink and you should be good to go.

I purchased this heater to heat the water in my 10ft (a bit less than 1,000 gallon) Intex pool to a warm temperature (about 90F max) - so not for heating a hot tub. I got it in an Amazon warehouse deal for a price that's about 30-40% lower than regular so I considered that a great a deal. Now, when our electrician set it up, it did not work at first. First we thought it was a flow issue, but when we did all the calculations, we figured we have a higher flow rate than what the device required. Electrician left, unit turned on for a second, but the display did not stay on (i.e. did not sense the flow), so I was about to call customer service. Next day my husband took off the cover and moved/reinforced all wires, bits and pieces and reset the temperature sensor - hallelujah the unit started to work! And it heated the pool water beautifully... then a few days later, it started to trip the breaker and we had no clue why. Then it again worked unexpectedly, then again it did not. Called the electrician again, he replaced the GFCI breaker with non-GFCI and that fixed it, hopefully this time for good. All in all, this unit has given me a lot of grief when it did not work and my daughter would have wanted to splash and I could not heat up the water, but when it does work, it's really good. It's now taken down for the winter, we'll see again in the spring... but honestly, had it not been a warehouse deal and had I paid full price + the cost of the electrician twice on top, this unit would have costed me a fortune already. Well, it kind of did. The only reason why I wanted it so bad was because all other reasonable units run on propane, which I hate, and I wanted a small and slim electric unit that does the job. This does, when it works. Also a better manual would come handy.